08 February 2025

the shape of the plaza and the distant view

So I was watching episode two of One Day and enjoying the sights of Rome. When Dexter is talking to his mother outside her hotel, the space in front of the hotel was so familiar. Not just the narrow space there, opening into the wider plaza beyond. The decorated façade of the shopfront across from the hotel. It just had to be the Rome hotel that Carol and I stayed in before we went to Florence for the IFLA art periodicals conference in 1986. Dexter's father comes to the door to meet them. The sliding door has the name "Campo de' Fiori" painted on it. That's it, our hotel.

That was my first time in Rome. I was excited beyond words. Carol had gotten there a while before I did. I had been warned not to take anything but a legitimate taxi from the central train station. My cab was somewhere near the taxi stand but he drove me a very indirect route to the Campo area. I had a map and was able to follow where we were. He was having trouble finding the Campo and stopped at a business on a very narrow street to ask directions. We got close, to the nearby Piazza Farnese which is in front of the French Embassy. I told him this was close enough, paid him, and got out of the car to get my suitcase from the back. He took off. I ran after him and he went out into the clogged traffic on the Lungotevere, along the Tiber River. As I ran, I was shouting something and a guard at the embassy joined the chase. (Was this a movie?) Anyway, the guard stood on the corner and I pointed to the supposed taxi. With a uniformed security man standing there, the driver got out and opened the back of the car so I could get my suitcase. I walked sheepishly the block and a half to the Hotel Campo de' Fiori. By the time we left Rome a few days later, I knew how to take the city bus from near the Campo to the central station.

 

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