On the other end of the scale was the massive Il Gesù church which includes a magnificent painting of Saint Ignatius by Peter Paul Rubens.
It is Maundy Thursday and we had read that the city Confraternities processed around the seven churches in the medieval quarter. We didn't find that but there were special activities at various churches as well as seasonal masses. The simple Romanesque interior of San Donato (12th century) was filled with music (and incense) and there was a special Easter tableau.
Genoa is hilly and that provides for incredible views when you get above the dense city.
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